Robin Hoods Playground

I'm about to do my first flash on a Liteon WITHOUT the connectivity kit or the probe. I realize there are advantages to using the official tool, but I don't really feel like paying $30-50 for a tool I'm most likely only going to use once. I've been reading Textbook's tutorial, which doesn't cover the Liteon, and JungleFlasher tutorial for the past month as well as some miscellaneous tutorials and forum posts. Unfortunately, I've come across some information that seems to contradict and I'm a little confused....

In the course of my research, I came across this http://beta.ivancover.com/wiki/index.ph ... xtract_Key It also links to a schematic for a RS232 to PIC converter, my dumbed-down connectivity kit. However, this tutorial also says to join R707 AND R708, which wasn't in Textbook or Jungleflasher.

I was hoping someone more experienced with the history of flashing had an answer. Is joining R708 no longer necessary? If so, why? Did the connectivity kit get better or did jungleflasher/iprep get better? Would I still have to do this for my RS232-PIC?

Also, in getting the drive into the proper mode using the half open tray method, is it critical that power needs to be plugged back in right away or within a certain time? Sorry, but I saw a few posts to that affect, but I didn't see it in any of the tutorials.

Thanks to the community for all the great information and the awesome support. I come from a pretty technical background, so hopefully my questions won't be too noobish. Sorry for the long intro post. Thank you all!!

Let me start by saying Welcome to The Forest!!

Second, the easiest way to flash a Lite-On or any other drive is with a connectivity kit. The reason that I say this is because there is a lot of risk when powering the drive with the XBox. Well there is risk with the CK but it is less.

Once you purchase the CK Lite or Pro and use it once it basically pays for itself, and you can use it with all the drives not just the Lite-On. Then when it's time to re-flash with new FW you already have it. Plus if you get the probe to go with the CK3 Pro then there is no soldering.

On the other hand if you have experiance making devices like the one in the link you posted then the cost could be less for you.

As far as using the tray half open trick, you have to pull the power out of the drive with the xbox still on. To me that's too much of a chance that something bad could happen.

All in all the CK3 makes it easier to do the flash and well worth the money spent.

Post up if you have any more questions and again thanks for joining!!!

Well the rs232 ttl converter is what you will need to build, thats what your buying if you buy the ck3.

I also found this tut:
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=668247" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


Dont solder the 2 points, just bridge them with a screw driver or something...

For the half open thing, just manually eject the drive, then power it on... Your drive will need to be open anyways, might aswell turn a couple gears rather than build an eject button.

I am not the absolute greatest with these kind of things, nor do I completely understand the theory behind dumping of the lite-on, so you may want some more info from other members first.

Alright, thank you very much. I've decided to order a connectivity kit as I hadn't thought about updating the firmware and I really don't like soldering stuff.

yeah get a ck3 pro mate. it will save u a lot of hassle.